First Rides and End of Serbia

After two days in Belgrade, our luggage finally arrived. Todd and I stayed up until late Friday night putting the bikes together and packing all the gear up to leave on Saturday. By the time we were ready to leave on Saturday, the sun was beaming full blast and temperatures were in the 100’s. Eager to get out of the city and start our trip, we decided to head out into the inferno anyway.

Cycling Day 1: Belgrade to Novi Banovci 30k

Weaving in and out of traffic on the streets and sidewalks, I wished that I knew the Serbian word for “LOOK OUT!” I tried all English variations I could think of, and even some French… “HEY!” “BIKE!” “WATCH OUT!” “VELO!”… and finally decided that the closest word to the Serbian word for caution was “AHHHHHHHHH!” and if yelled with extreme passion it always got someone’s attention.

The city driving wasn’t as bad as the two lane highway that took us out into the countryside around Belgrade. There was a short bike path that led to a cobble stone road following the Danube river, which ended abruptly with a fat Serbian man stumbling out of a portable water closet and yelling wildly in Serbian something we took to mean “Get the fuck off my river you crazy foreigner!”.

Eventually, we found our way to Novi Banovci . Even though we only traveled about 30k, we were completely wrecked from traveling in such high temperatures. We stayed in the only lodging available for several towns, a beautiful hotel called The Kondor. A bit out of our price range (50euros) but worth every penny . We had a huge bed, private bathroom (including bidet) porch that overlooked a peaceful bend in the Danube river, and a huge Serbian wedding celebration in the back yard.

Travel Day 2: Novi Banovci to Novi Sad 60k

We fell asleep to the ruckus of a live traditional Serbian band (I swear they had 5 encores) and woke up to the sun and mist rising over the Danube. We left before the roosters started crowing and made our way out of the sleepy village. It was gorgeous. We rode past acres of sunflowers fields and tiny towns with barely any traffic. Unfortunately for us, that also meant bee farms and loads of stray dogs. After Todd took a bee to the lip, and I managed to get one stuck in my helmet, we were chased by three crazy mutts whose territory we apparently crossed. Yet! No stings, no bites, hallelujah.

After the fairly uneventful ride (which ended in Novi Sad after a 5k downhill coast) we were starved and a bit lost. It was now a little after 10am, temperatures inching into the 90s and we had been riding for five hours. The first restaurant we saw? McDonalds. Hell yeah! Todd rolled his eyes at first, but I knew I’d make a believer out of him. Top three reasons that Serbian McDonalds rock: reason #1) spiced, 1/2lb meat burger with fresh greens, real tomatoes and herb seasoned sour cream and delicious melted cheese on top of a lightly toasted ciabatta bun, with a side of seasoned fresh mozzarella balls and more fresh salad and tomatoes. Reason #2) free internet. Reason #3) Free, super-clean, bathrooms (definitely a real luxury here… something that will normally cost you your first-born). We ordered three meals, (value size? Why yes!) and ate every morsel. God bless America and her inventions.

We checked into a hostel, took a nap in the park, and hung out with a teacher from Pasadena Cali, a young Englishmen, and an Italian hostel owner. Dinner was lovely, and we sat under an umbrella drinking local wine and beer watching the storm and the city grow quiet.

Tomorrow we cross into Croatia (if it ever stops raining) and say ciao to Serbia!